Cate Underwood Interview for Schön! magazine, june 2013.

CATE UNDERWOOD: MORE THAN A MODEL.

At just 22 years old you would be forgiven for thinking Ukrainian photographer (& model, blogger, DJ, mother), Cate Underwood was just starting out in her career; but that’s where you’d be mistaken. Having shot for the likes of Vogue Ukraine, Elle and Harper’s Bazaar Ukraine (winning the latter’s Fashion Forward Award for photography in 2010), plus fronting several ad campaigns, Underwood is already a veteran of the fashion business. To coincide with the gorgeous images of her taken by photographer Yiorgos Mavropoulos, Schön! sat down with one of fashion’s most dedicated multitaskers to talk all things photography.

I believe you began taking photographs whilst pregnant with your daughter Eva – what drew you to photography?

I was interested in photography before getting pregnant but after giving birth to Eva I realised I was responsible for a new life. That made me more decisive and focused on what it is I wanted to do. So I decided to give photography a full go because I felt really passionate about it.

Was it difficult when you were starting out to be taken seriously as you were (and still are) so young and had little formal training?

I don’t think you should be too serious about this job so I never looked at it that way – I’ve never thought about whether I looked convincing or not. I’ve just had faith in what I do and put a lot of effort in it.

When you were first approached to become a model you turned the offer down – what made you later change your mind?

I was 15 at that time and it didn’t occur to me that modelling could be an occupation. But as I got older and got involved in fashion as a photographer, I realised the amazing possibilities modelling can offer and I was lucky to be given this chance.

The style of your self-portraits and Polaroid work differ quite considerably to your fashion editorial work – is that purely down to the differences between digital and film cameras, or are there other reasons?

Polaroid is always about a nostalgic point of view, it always transcends time, taking the viewer to the past, evoking memories and feelings long gone. Polaroid shots tell stories, express feelings, they tell us about life.

Digital camera is a means of creating a perfect picture. I don’t mean it should be technically perfect, but the idea of digital is that you can transform the reality to create a story. For me this experience is a journey, a pursuit for absolute purity, rigor, simplicity.

You have sited photographers David Sims, Willy Vanderperre, Alasdair McLellan and Peter Lindbergh as inspiration, and their influence is clear in your minimalist photographic style – is this an effect you aim to achieve?

In my work I want to explore the notions of simplicity and perfection of shape. It may be quite formulaic but I’m a firm believer in simplicity. The simplest things are the hardest to achieve.

For me, this minimalistic approach has to do with Nineties’ aesthetics. I was born and raised in quite a strange time and place, it was very messy and quite baroque [with] the Perestroika (a political movement), the new money and capitalism happening in Ukraine. I am very influenced by the whole Nineties’ redux aesthetics – something careless, something undone, transgressive. I believe in a strong female character, I believe in androgyny and certain emotional ambivalence.

In the end my pictures are a mixture of strict shapes, strong characters and nonchalance where it doesn’t look like it’s trying too hard. But this doesn’t mean the process behind creating these images isn’t complex.

Is there a model or brand you would especially like to work with who you haven’t managed to yet?

As I said, I love people with a strong personality. I’d love to work with Iselin Steiro, Jamie Bochert, Malgosia Bela – they are amazing women. As for the brands, it’s all about Calvin Klein, Balenciaga, Celine, Jil Sander, Raf Simons, Chloe, Maison Martin Margiela and Ann Demeulemeester.

Does the fact that you are a photographer make modelling easier? Or do you find it difficult not being in control?

For me, switching from photography to modelling was a rather natural and liberating experience, but I did have some difficulties accepting the fact that it wasn’t me in charge on set. Modelling is as much a job as any other, and I had to accept and respect the rules; so now I’m totally fine with being just a medium, a tool.

Can you see yourself being both a model and photographer for a long time to come?

I will be doing this as long as it gives me satisfaction. I think there is a limit in modelling that I may come to and maybe this will make me quit one day. Photography is something I’ll keep doing no matter what. This is where I can express myself and tell the things I will never tell otherwise. It is my personal story and there are a lot of secrets in it.

How have you managed to juggle photography, modelling, blogging, DJing and motherhood?

It just all happens and I enjoy living my life the way I do now. Maybe I just love a fast ride.

What is next for Cate Underwood?

Time will tell, but I’m not going to stop, that’s for sure.



For more info on Cate please visit: www.cateunderwood.com

Link for the interview on Schön! magazine.

This online exclusive editorial has been produced by:

Photography / Yiorgos Mavropoulos
Grooming / Stella Mavrodi @ D-Tales
Wardrobe / Yogo Lu
Model / Cate Underwood @ D Model Agency
Words / Roxanne Golding
Interviewed by Jade Thompson

This how I made it in America.

"По просьбе ТОП10 украинский фэшн-фотограф Кейт Андервуд поделилась снимками и впечатлениями о своем пребывании в Нью-Йорке, где она прожила два месяца и куда отправилась в качестве модели агенства New York Models Management. Комментарии публикуются в том числе и на английском языке, чтобы сохранить всю специфику того периода, а также для зарубежных друзей Кейт."

"By the request of TOP10 Ukrainian fashion photographer Cate Underwood shared her photos and impressions during her stay in New York, where she spent two months and worked there as a model. She is represented by New York Models Management."

1)    Manhattan с окна моих апартаментов. Остановилась я на Kent Avenue, Williamsburg, у самого берега реки и меня никогда не покидало ощущение, что я таки в Нью Йорке, именно в том городе, о котором я грезила уже пару лет и мои надежды были оправданы. Это любовь с первого взгляда и желание никогда с ним не расставаться, ни на секунду.

This how I see Manhattan from the window of my apartments. I have stopped on Kent Avenue, Williamsburg, on the shore of the river so I never loose the feeling that I am in New York, in that city, about which I had been dreaming for a couple of years and at last my hopes were justified. It's a love at first sight and will never leave this city again, even for a second.

2) Dali на Broadway под названием La Basket, совсем недалеко от офиса моего агентства, где, в промежутках между кастингами, я могла курить прямо на летней площадке/читать книгу/изучать прохожих. Но самое главное достоинство этого места - вкуснейший запеченный лосось и sauté из морепродуктов.

А теперь представьте. Первая неделя в Нью Йорке подходила к концу, пятница. Закончив все кастинги в этот день, очень голодная, оступившись, и по-этому, собственно, хромая, в расстроенных чувствах, что только я могу  так нелепо нанести себе увечья, таки добралась до всех моих благ. Как раз в этот момент меня застал врасплох господин Шуман.

Dali on Broadway named La Basket, close to the office of my agency, where, in between of castings, I can smoke right on the summer terrace/read a book/discover passers-by. But the main advantage of this place - delicious baked salmon and seafood sauté.

And now imagine. First week in New York is coming closer to the end, Friday. After finishing all the castings that day, starving, with twisted ankle, and that’s why, actually, limping and frustrated that just I can make self-mutilation in a such ridiculous way, still made it to all my blessings. At that moment I was caught unexpected by Mr. Shuman.

4) Go/see в Calvin Klein, Uptown. Я тогда была очень возбуждена. У меня всегда так, когда я вижусь с людьми, которые меня действительно вдохновляют или когда я вижу предмет своего вдохновения. Иногда даже не вериться, что все это происходит со мной – Нью Йорк со всеми его перспективами, количеством новых отличных знакомств, этой невероятной энергией. Можно просто сойти с ума.

Снимок справа – бесспорно тот Нью Йорк, которым мы привыкли его видеть в кино. Но признаюсь честно – Downtown меня привлекает намного больше.

Go / see in Calvin Klein, Uptown. I was very high. I am always like this when I meet people whom I really inspired by or when I see the object of my inspiration. Sometimes I stop for a minute and think that it couldn’t be truth - New York, with all its challenges, great meetings and incredible energy in the city. Just driving crazy.

On the right: real NY, which we are used to see in the movies. But honestly - Downtown attracts me much more and this is real New York.

5) С Эвелиной мы познакомились на показе Литковской в Киеве. Забавно что в следующем месяце мы обе оказались в Нью Йорке и пересеклись на кастинге в нашем, как оказалось, общем агентстве – New York Models.

We’ve met with Evelina on Litkovskaya show in Kiev. It's funny that next month we both were in New York and hooked up on the casting in the agency, as it turned out, mutual - New York Models.

6) Model tests: Cornelia@New York Models. По сути моя первая съемка в Нью Йорке. Именно этим она меня и трогает. Знаете, это как еще один шаг на встречу к желанному.

Model tests: Cornelia @ New York Models. In fact my first shot in New York. That's why it’s quite touching. You know, this is just one more step to the desire.

7) November, 31. Provocateur night club.

NYC – город, который никогда не спит. С понедельника по воскресение включительно. А Halloween – еще один повод для веселья: одетые в костюмы «нью-йорковцы» идут так на работу, ходят в таком виде по улицам, дети просят конфет, а топ-менеджеры работают по 19 часов в сутки и когда я в 4 утра еду на такси домой спать, то вижу их через витрины спортзала уже (или еще) на тренажерах. Люблю Нью Йорк. (линк)

November, 31. Provocateur night club.

NY is the city that never sleeps (from Monday till Sunday inclusive). Halloween is just one more reason for  “cheers”: dressed New Yorkers going for work, walking like this on the streets, kids are asking for sweets, and top managers are working 19 hours per day and when I am in the cab on my way back home to sleep (details: 4 a.m.), I can see them at the gym through the big windows. I love New York. (link)

8) Karina, одна из моих room-mates. Пленка.

Моя память как огромная галерея из таких «картинок», я бы даже сказала, она намного больше, чем было снято на камеру. Любое воспоминание как личная драгоценность, которую никто никогда не сможет у тебя отобрать, что-то по-настоящему вечное. Цените.

One of my room-mates, Karina. Taken with film camera.

My memory is a huge gallery of "pictures" like this one. I would say, it is even much bigger than was captured with camera. Any recall as a personal treasure that no one can ever take away from you, something truly eternal. Appreciate this.